Avenches – a medieval town with a long Roman history

Friday 27 September 2013

http://www.avenches.ch/en/index.cfm

ZIWA’s Discovering Zürich and Switzerland group members are used to making long journeys to explore every corner of our beautiful country, but this trip had even more going for it than usual. A three-stage train ride into Canton Vaud, a challenging French lunch menu, two different eras of history and a French-speaking tour guide! Not to mention the chance to meet people from nine different countries and five continents. Where else but in ZIWA?

The journey and the all-important lunch

First we found our coach at the far end of the fast train to Geneva via Fribourg, only to find our seats taken by a party of noisy schoolboys. We closed ranks, and they got out at Bern so we could hear ourselves speak again then. Then in Fribourg there was a rush to catch the regional train to Payerne, and find new neighbours to chat to and more gossip to catch up on. Finally we caught another local train to the small but picturesque old town of Avenches, famous for its towering turrets and its Roman amphitheatre. After hiking uphill, pausing briefly to admire the view, we hurried to find our seats inside the historic Hotel Restaurant de la Couronne for lunch. The menu du jour kept us occupied for quite a while – vivaneau anyone? Choices were divided between that and the civet or venison with all the trimmings, including extra spätzli. Dessert was a yummy chocolate fig cake, and the wine card got a good testing too.

Friends, Romans, countrymen

After settling up and checking out all the facilities, we strolled out to find our guide near the famous Roman amphitheatre. A lovely lady, Sonia Müller, but she spoke only French. Multilingual Chip came to the rescue as translator, with several other members of the French conversation groups chipping in. We heard that the Helvetic tribes, the local Celtic people, were in dispute with the Alamanni, a German tribe, and were defeated here by Julius Caesar in 58BC on his way to conquer Gaul. The Romans under Augustus established a walled settlement known as Aventicum in 15BC, whose relics can be seen in and around the small town to this day. Aventicum became the capital of the Helvetii due to its strategic position and links to waterways. The local people gradually adopted the Roman way of life and benefited from its extensive empire and trade connections. The Sacred Way was built in the town centre in 71-72 AD, and the town boasted 20,000 inhabitants in its heyday. The old town wall is still visible with its 73 watchtowers and four gates. Stone from Neuchatel was brought via canal.

Burial relics

We then entered the Roman museum, which occupies an 11^th century building extending over five floors, adjacent to the well-preserved Roman arena. We studied a map of the old Roman town, and saw several wall paintings, and relics and statues obtained from local burial sites. The museum also contained mosaics of gladiator combat with animals. Downstairs into the region of the dead, we learnt that while adults were cremated, children were buried in stone tombs along with funerary objects which have survived.  Constantine brought Christianity to the Roman Empire in 312 AD.  Upstairs on the first floor we saw many beautiful sculptures including the 2000 year old bust of Marcus Aurelius cast in gold, excavated as recently as 1939. The frescoes, mosaics and coins gave us a fuller picture of life in Avenches during the Roman settlement. On the top floor we saw models of the lifestyle of the local inhabitants, which improved under the Romans.

Back beside the amphitheatre, we heard that today it is used for staging opera, rock festivals and a tattoo in October: 16,000 people can be seated when extended.

Dark and Middle Ages

The imposing castle overlooking the town was home to 22 bishops, although barbarians destroyed part of the original settlement. In the 13^th century, the Bishop of Lausanne founded a small house in Avenches, when window taxes were common. It was later enlarged in the Renaissance style in the 16^th century, by the invading Bernese. Sculptures of the builder, mason and other key figures can be seen on the outer wall of the castle which also served as a prison. The site of an original drawbridge can still be seen; a modern theatre has also been built on the site.

We strolled around the outer wall of the medieval town and re-entered via the 14^th century Tour de Vully at the Porte des Voleurs. On the inner wall, we noticed a Star of David, which indicated a place of sanctuary for Jews. The main street of the medieval town is still much the same, the Town Hall dating back to 1438, and the nearby Rue Paysan was where the people kept their animals and dried tobacco leaves on their sloping roofs.

We just had time to peep inside the curious wooden-roofed church of Mary Magdalene, formerly a Benedictine priory, which was rebuilt in 1709-11 after the Reformation. Then we said Au revoir to Sonia, our guide, and took a welcome drink outside before heading back to the station to catch the direct train to Bern. Another opportunity to socialise, share recipes and email addresses and to thank Anne-Marie for sharing another aspect of her beloved French-speaking part of Switzerland.

PS. Vivaneau turned out to be snapper.

Julia Newton, 1 October 2013.