Avenches – a medieval town with a long Roman history

Friday 27 September 2013

http://www.avenches.ch/en/index.cfm

ZIWA’s Discovering Zürich and Switzerland group members are used to making long journeys to explore every corner of our beautiful country, but this trip had even more going for it than usual. A three-stage train ride into Canton Vaud, a challenging French lunch menu, two different eras of history and a French-speaking tour guide! Not to mention the chance to meet people from nine different countries and five continents. Where else but in ZIWA?

The journey and the all-important lunch

First we found our coach at the far end of the fast train to Geneva via Fribourg, only to find our seats taken by a party of noisy schoolboys. We closed ranks, and they got out at Bern so we could hear ourselves speak again then. Then in Fribourg there was a rush to catch the regional train to Payerne, and find new neighbours to chat to and more gossip to catch up on. Finally we caught another local train to the small but picturesque old town of Avenches, famous for its towering turrets and its Roman amphitheatre. After hiking uphill, pausing briefly to admire the view, we hurried to find our seats inside the historic Hotel Restaurant de la Couronne for lunch. The menu du jour kept us occupied for quite a while – vivaneau anyone? Choices were divided between that and the civet or venison with all the trimmings, including extra spätzli. Dessert was a yummy chocolate fig cake, and the wine card got a good testing too.

Friends, Romans, countrymen

After settling up and checking out all the facilities, we strolled out to find our guide near the famous Roman amphitheatre. A lovely lady, Sonia Müller, but she spoke only French. Multilingual Chip came to the rescue as translator, with several other members of the French conversation groups chipping in. We heard that the Helvetic tribes, the local Celtic people, were in dispute with the Alamanni, a German tribe, and were defeated here by Julius Caesar in 58BC on his way to conquer Gaul. The Romans under Augustus established a walled settlement known as Aventicum in 15BC, whose relics can be seen in and around the small town to this day. Aventicum became the capital of the Helvetii due to its strategic position and links to waterways. The local people gradually adopted the Roman way of life and benefited from its extensive empire and trade connections. The Sacred Way was built in the town centre in 71-72 AD, and the town boasted 20,000 inhabitants in its heyday. The old town wall is still visible with its 73 watchtowers and four gates. Stone from Neuchatel was brought via canal.

Burial relics

We then entered the Roman museum, which occupies an 11^th century building extending over five floors, adjacent to the well-preserved Roman arena. We studied a map of the old Roman town, and saw several wall paintings, and relics and statues obtained from local burial sites. The museum also contained mosaics of gladiator combat with animals. Downstairs into the region of the dead, we learnt that while adults were cremated, children were buried in stone tombs along with funerary objects which have survived.  Constantine brought Christianity to the Roman Empire in 312 AD.  Upstairs on the first floor we saw many beautiful sculptures including the 2000 year old bust of Marcus Aurelius cast in gold, excavated as recently as 1939. The frescoes, mosaics and coins gave us a fuller picture of life in Avenches during the Roman settlement. On the top floor we saw models of the lifestyle of the local inhabitants, which improved under the Romans.

Back beside the amphitheatre, we heard that today it is used for staging opera, rock festivals and a tattoo in October: 16,000 people can be seated when extended.

Dark and Middle Ages

The imposing castle overlooking the town was home to 22 bishops, although barbarians destroyed part of the original settlement. In the 13^th century, the Bishop of Lausanne founded a small house in Avenches, when window taxes were common. It was later enlarged in the Renaissance style in the 16^th century, by the invading Bernese. Sculptures of the builder, mason and other key figures can be seen on the outer wall of the castle which also served as a prison. The site of an original drawbridge can still be seen; a modern theatre has also been built on the site.

We strolled around the outer wall of the medieval town and re-entered via the 14^th century Tour de Vully at the Porte des Voleurs. On the inner wall, we noticed a Star of David, which indicated a place of sanctuary for Jews. The main street of the medieval town is still much the same, the Town Hall dating back to 1438, and the nearby Rue Paysan was where the people kept their animals and dried tobacco leaves on their sloping roofs.

We just had time to peep inside the curious wooden-roofed church of Mary Magdalene, formerly a Benedictine priory, which was rebuilt in 1709-11 after the Reformation. Then we said Au revoir to Sonia, our guide, and took a welcome drink outside before heading back to the station to catch the direct train to Bern. Another opportunity to socialise, share recipes and email addresses and to thank Anne-Marie for sharing another aspect of her beloved French-speaking part of Switzerland.

PS. Vivaneau turned out to be snapper.

Julia Newton, 1 October 2013.

Discovering Zug

The small lakeside town of Zug is a lovely place to visit at any time: it always exudes a holiday atmosphere. In summertime there are the added pleasures of enjoying a coffee or a cold drink in one of the open air cafes near the lake, taking a ride on a pedalo or enjoying lunch on a boat while cruising around the lake of Zug. On Thursday 25 July, the ZIWA Discovering Zurich and Switzerland group did just that. Except the pedaloes - we saved that watery pursuit for another day.

Exploring Zug

Fast trains to Zug run every half an hour from Zurich HB, Thalwil and Luzern. From Zug station it's a 10 minute walk to the lake, where to the right one can find the departure point for short and long cruises around the beautiful and peaceful Zugersee. Strolling left lakeside past the gardens and the twin swans sculpture, one reaches the main square, the Landsgemeindeplatz. From here the Lunch Boats depart, pedalo and motor boat hire can quickly be arranged, or one can sit on the terraces of cafes Domus or Muehle to enjoy a drink and take in the atmosphere. Beside the lake there are two large aviaries, home to scarlet ibis, avocet, golden pheasant and snowy owls.

Then a short stroll will take you around the Altstadt or old town streets of Fischmarkt, Ober-Altstadt and Unter-Altstadt. Here there are many small chic shops, art galleries and restaurants as well as the Fischerei Museum. This is the site of the plaque commemorating the floods of 1435 when 60 local people lost their lives. The bronze Greth Schell fountain is a curiosity - the old lady carries the devil on her back. Look out for the two-level shopping parade and the antique shop signs.

Above the old town in Kolinplatz stands the Zytturm or clock tower, and from the top there's a great view over the rooftops of Zug and the outlook towards the Zugersee, the hill which overshadows the town and is worth a climb on another occasion. A favourite restaurant is the Liguria, formerly known as the Hecht, with the sign of the pike. Its airy dining room offers a terrific view over the lake and the menu and service are something special. For a more traditional venue, you could also try the Restaurant Aklin or the Rathauskeller.

Treat yourself to lunch on board!

It's advisable to book ahead for this splendid lunch service. The lunch boats depart from the Landsgemeindeplatz on Wednesdays and Thursdays in the summer months. The service is particularly good and the choice of menus very reasonable. For the price of CHF33 with Halbtax, one can enjoy a two course lunch with a choice of two salads and five fish, meat or vegetarian dishes. For a couple of francs more there's also a Business Lunch menu with a similar number of options. Coffee and drinks are extra. The meal is quickly served, allowing time to gaze out onto the view of the banks of the Zugersee and the small towns of Buonas, Oberwil and Cham.

Markets and stores

The cherry season normally occurs in June and July, and we were just in time to sample the selection of large, juicy cherries at the Chriesimaert in the main square. The best cherries I've tasted all year! Nearby in the new town is a branch of department store Manor, a bookshop with a great selection of English books, and many other shops and stores. There's a large car park Neustadt by Coop which can be reached from the main road inwards from Zurich. Parking is also possible at Casino. 

Open air concerts

In summer there are open air concerts held in the main square, the Landsgemeindeplatz, every Wednesday evening. So find a table in one of the lakeside cafes and sit back and enjoy the atmosphere.

Try our quiz!

ZIWA Discoverers always keep their eyes open for curiosities and fascinating facts. Try our quiz! Fourteen people took part, and six completed the quiz correctly. The winning tie-breaker slogan 'I like discovering Zug because of ... its beautiful setting, nice old town, good restaurants' was suggested by regular group member Helga, who won a bottle of Kirsch.

How well do you know Zug? Answers are at the bottom.

1. What two famous mountains can you see in Zug on a good day?

2. What popular summer fruit can you buy at the Zuger Chriesimärt?

3. Which of the following boats might you see on the Zugersee (tick 1 or more)?

Rigi,   Zug,  Gotthard,  Schwyz 

4. What is the name of the hill which overlooks Zug? 

5. When did 60 people lose their lives in floods (look around in the Altstadt)?

6. Which of these places is not a stop on the Zug boat trips?

a) Buonas     b) Oberwil    c) Weggis

7. What is the name of the old woman in the fountain at Unter Altstadt?

8. What score was awarded to the Rathauskeller by the Guide Bleu?

9. When was Aklin the butcher’s founded?

a) 1862 b) 1892 c) 1856

10. What fish is the former name of the Restaurant Liguria?

Find out more

For more information about Zug and the boats on the lake, see these links:

http://www.zug-tourismus.ch/en/welcome.cfm

http://www.zugersee-schifffahrt.ch/en/home/

For a little piece of heaven in central Switzerland, hurry and make a trip to Zug. You won't regret it!

Quiz Answers:

1. Rigi, Pilatus. 2. Cherries. 3. Rigi, Zug, Schwyz. 4. Zugerberg. 5. 4 March 1435. 6. Weggis. 7. Greth Schell.8. 7.5. 9. 1862. 10. Hecht (Pike).

Written by Julia Newton, 31 July 2013.

Discovering Coal Mine in Horgen

Coal mining in Switzerland? Visit Horgen’s mining museum and take a thrilling train ride into the old mining tunnels!

http://www.bergwerk-kaepfnach.ch/indexphp

 Wednesday, 29 May, 2013

Switzerland’s power requirements today are provided jointly by nuclear power and hydroelectricity. But up until 1949 the old coal mining tunnels under the Zimmerberg in Horgen on the Zurichsee were still producing coal. Never afraid of new experiences, the ZIWA Discovering Zürich and Switzerland group made an afternoon visit to the Horgen Mining Museum to find out about the history of coal mining in Switzerland, enjoy a promotional film made in 1943, and finally take a hair-raising train ride through some of the original mining tunnels. Hard hats were the order of the day in the dark spaces underneath the hillside of Horgen Käpfnach. We learnt that there are 80 km. of tunnels in the former mine, one of which has been secured for use as part of the living museum, which features many artefacts from bygone days.

How mining started

A 16^th century chronicle mentions the prospect of coal under the Swiss earth, and in the 17^th century, mining attempts began. But the quality of the coal was poor, comprising lignite, a brown coal with a sulphurous smell. English miners were invited to advise the Swiss on how to manage their developing mining industry, and they recommended secondary industries such as iron and glass works, but the idea never really caught on here. Later, however, when the Hergiswil glassworks was cutting down all the trees to feed their furnaces, the Horgen mine authorities thought again. Industrialist J.S. Claiss from Winterthur advised on blasting the tunnels, and safety rules for miners were established. Accidents at a depth of 65m. were not unusual though. The miners’ first task was to excavate the tunnels and secure them with wooden pit props.

Wartime necessity

Coal production between 1784 and 1850 was small, but with the development of the railway in 1850, and the outbreak of the Franco-Prussian war in 1870 when borders were closed, Switzerland needed to become more self-sufficient. Hourly wages and clean coal bonuses for miners were established. Again during World War II, when the Swiss were afraid of being hit by German bombs, the need for local power sources was again a priority.  The Horgen mine was run by the Schokke family with a tough but benevolent hand. Electric drills, ventilation and underground railways made the mining process more efficient.  The film made in 1943 showed the conditions under which miners worked: they had eight- hour shifts six days a week, they worked in pairs, and 150-200 miners were employed at that time. Gunpowder was used to blast out the coal-bearing rocks, and the clean coal was carried out in trucks. No mine shafts were needed as the tunnels led directly into the hillside. However three fatal accidents were recorded at this time, and in 1947, the Horgen mine was closed.

Mining museum

In 1982, a Verein was set up in Käpfnach which led to the opening of a mining museum on the site. Our guide, Doris Scriven, told us many stories about the history of the mine, and we saw many artefacts such as miners’ carbide lamps and clothing and machinery from the old mine works. The highlight of the tour was an hour-long ride on a precarious train through the dark, low tunnels: hard hats were a must. We observed the drill holes where explosives were set, and there was even an art exhibition underground in one of Switzerland’s strangest galleries.

Thanks to Rowena Woollard who arranged the fascinating visit. Another Discovering first!

Julia Newton, 6 June 2013. Additional photos by Dawn Powling

Discovering Murten - history comes to life

I first discovered the small medieval city of Murten last year, thanks to fellow ZIWA member Amy Eber who also found the place by chance, and loved it so much she and her husband took an apartment there, right in the middle of the medieval town centre. The Discovering Zürich & Switzerland group had a guided tour there last week, and learnt more about its history and present-day culture. If you’ve never been, make a point to visit this summer. It can be reached by train via Bern or Neuchatel, or you can take a boat trip on the Drei-Seen-Fahrt from Biel via the lake of Neuchatel to the Murtensee.

Our guide to Murten was Beatrice Magnin-Riedi, a bilingual French/German speaker who also spoke perfect English, whom we met at the small castle just inside the city walls. The view over the Murtensee was splendid, although clouds obscured the mountain of Vully and the wine terraces until later in the day. The Romans passed through here as did the Helvetii, and the town is one of several surrounding and protecting the city of Bern. German and French are taught in schools and we learnt that the University of Fribourg in the cantonal capital hold all its courses in both languages.  The city of Murten was established in 1238, and Peter of Savoy conquered it in 1255; the Savoyards ruled until 1476 when the Battle of Murten took place. Savoy is unusual in having had several women leaders and there is still a predominance of women working in the court building opposite the castle, and there has also been a recent tradition of women presidents in the Gemeinde, a fact that struck a chord with our women’s group.

Murten has retained its medieval buildings, even though cars clutter the cobbled streets of the centre, and the town holds many traditional festivals. One of these is the ‘slow up’ 20 km. walk around the lake every October. There is a carnival in March, flea markets in June, the ‘Solennität’ youth festival commemorating the Battle of Murten, and a Christmas market. There are no electric street lights in the town and the old coats of arms and shop signs have been retained everywhere.  There is a grid of old streets with alleyways or Graben in between, where the fire service had access and rubbish used to be thrown out. Overshoes were de rigeur in those days. The reformer Calvin had 30 people burnt on account of the plague in the 16^th century.  The witch tower still exists where women suspected of being too clever or having moles on their skin were tortured and beheaded or burnt. Nowadays as then the cellars and ground floors could be used for business while the upper floors were residential.

It is also possible to climb up onto the city wall and see the view over the rooftops, with their distinctive tiles. Outside the walls, the Catholic church of St. Mauritius is located, and inside it we discovered very modern stain glass windows designed by a local artist in 1977. Murten today thrives from four types of business – tourism, local shops and crafts, small industry and farming.  One curiosity is the former clock from the old city hall which has been restored to its former design and chimes the quarter hours and the hours. In the arcaded shops reminiscent of Bern one can buy local products including the famous Nidelkuchen.

There are numerous restaurants and cafes in Murten where one can enjoy lunch inside or out. We chose the Murtenhof, with its terrace overlooking the lake, and afterwards walked down to the boat landing stage to take the boat across the lake of Murten. On sunny days it’s very pleasant to take a picnic beside the lake and enjoy the water sports. The boat to Biel crosses the Murtensee and glides through the Broye canal to the Lake of Neuchatel. The sun shone on us for this pleasant journey and from there, after a steep climb to the station, the direct train takes you back to Zurich.

Murten Tourist Office links: 

http://www.murtentourismus.ch/en/navpage_list-DestinationsFR-MurtenFR.html

http://switzerland.isyours.com/E/guide/arc_jurassien/morat.html

The Solenittat festival:

http://www.murtentourismus.ch/en/navpage-EventsFR-MainEventsFR-203745.html

Julia Newton, 31 May 2012