Friday 11 April 2014
In Spring 2013, ZIWA’s Discovering Zürich and Switzerland
group went deep inside the coal mines at Horgen (see this link
Horgen mine visit).
This year, we delved inside the
salt mines of Bex near Montreux. Who even knew
that Switzerland had these mines? Getting to the mines involved a two hour
train journey from Zürich via Lausanne followed by a taxi ride to the entrance to
the mine. As we passed over the Röstigraben it was chance for a few of the
eleven ladies to show off their French before we visited the
restaurant, Le
Chat, conveniently located near the mine entrance.
Lunch was a leisurely matter with
the chance for some to get stuck into a big fat juicy steak or an equally
plentiful plate of fish and to share a glass of local wine. The manageress told
us helpfully that the Ollon white was better than the one from Bex, although
the local red seemed to be very acceptable.
Then we met our cheerful guide Nathalie outside the mine
visitor centre. She informed us that she had always loved meeting international
groups and was impressed that a group of women got out and about a lot. Of
course that’s meat and drink to most ZIWA members. We heard that the mines are
still in operation today and the miners work in the mornings, allowing time for
guided tours in the afternoons. The salt in Bex (pronounced Bey) is of a high
quality, naturally, and contains no radioactive substances. Nathalie reminded
us of all the uses for salt – preservation, adding taste to our food, providing
well-being – and said that the salt came initially from the sea bed and was
deposited in the land by precipitation. Before we entered the mine tunnels, we
watched a short film about its history.
What is salt?
The term ‘salary’ comes from salt, from Roman times when men
were paid in salt or ‘white gold as some designate it. The expression ‘below
the salt’ comes from medieval times when the poor had to sit at the end of the
table where salt was not on hand. Salt was
first extracted here in 1680 during the
Bernese conquest and the tunnels were all excavated by hand. Mining then was
slow and dangerous, and when the need was less, the salt mine was closed until
1724, when excavation began again. Scientists managed the extraction process.
The Vaud revolution brought independence to the region and the mine was
saved. But Basel had mines that were
easier to work, and the Bex mined closed again in 1836, until a local
cooperative was formed in 1866. In the 19
th century the salt was
brought out by hydraulics and drills, using thermo-compression. In the space of
100 years, the yield was increased tenfold.
In 1970 the method of wash boring was introduced, and the
mines are once again profitable, with 35,000 tonnes per annum being obtained.
Salt is still subject to tax. Also in the 19th century, the spa town
of Bex-les-bains was founded, and environmentally friendly salt was sold. No
carbon dioxide is released in the process.
Into the salt mines
Now it was time to board the little train for a
journey of
1.5 kilometres into the naturally ventilated mine tunnels, to a depth of 610
metres. The temperature underground was a steady 18 degrees but never very
cold. After the bone-shaking journey, we alighted inside one of the huge
galleries that exist underground, and we were able to explore further on foot. We saw a statue of
St. Barbara, the patron
saint of miners and firemen, in a niche in the rock. There was a plan of the
tunnels and galleries which are indeed extensive. We saw an exhibition of
minerals found in the rocks such as iron pyrites and halite, and a collection
of ammonites dating back millions of years. In the past boys as young as ten
years old were sent down to mine, even though there was a danger from methane
gas, so they carried a candle, until the safety lamp was invented. Rock is
extracted in cylindrical cores of different colours and tones. Iodine is also
present in the salt and benefits the thyroid gland. Left-handed miners are
always valued so that the tunnels can be dug out evenly on both sides.
Underground party?
In the huge
underground hall where a café is situated, it is
also possible to hire the room for a conference or very special birthday party
(see link above). Salt products are on sale there, but we took another train
back to the surface and daylight, where we could browse more salt-related
products, minerals and souvenirs in the gift shop. The return journey was
rather more crowded than the outgoing one, but another great day had been
experienced by the ZIWA Discoverers.
Thanks to Anne-Marie for arranging it all.
I’ll never take salt for granted again!
See more photos from Esther at this link:
Esther's Bex pictures
On a late summer's day, a garden restaurant is ideal. However, with a summer like this past one, a cosy indoor salon is a better bet. Drei Stuben catered to both alternatives: yesterday the rain won the day. Fourteen discerning ladies from ZIWA's Dining Around the World group gathered for lunch in the traditional wood-panelled interior of this typically Swiss place only two tram stops away from Zurich's main station. There was no shortage of conversation and good food.
