Underground at Zürich HB with Candrian Catering

The ZIWA Swinging Sixties group delves into the world of mass catering

Tuesday 25 February 2014

Zürich Hauptbahnhof’s catering service is the largest covered operation in Europe. This fact and many others came to light on yesterday’s tour arranged by Vreni and her popular ZIWA Interest Group. You didn't need to be 60 to participate, and 30 people turned up to discover this underground world, unremarked by most of the passengers who pass through the station every day. There were two groups, one English-speaking and one German-speaking, who assembled at the meeting point to discover more. Our guide was Patrick, the Operations Manager from the firm Candrian Catering, who also run several establishments in the city and in Basel.

Starting off in the Federal Brasserie, we learnt that this was one of the three original bars established in the HB in 1924. At that time there were three classes of traveller, and hence the restaurants Au Premier, Da Capo and Federal provided first, second and third class food and service. In 1924, a soup cost 20 rappen and a full menu cost 1 franc 20. The Federal now serves over 100 Swiss beers, many of them such as Ittinger now owned by the Dutch brewing giant Heineken. Candrian Catering also works with the Nordsee and Burger King franchises that have outlets in the station.

Did you know that Zürich HB has a staff restaurant with 400 seats, which serves the 1600 catering and SBB staff who work at the station? The entrance is on the first floor opposite the Landesmuseum if you want to try it out for yourself! On the other hand, Candrian also do the catering for the Zürich HB Oktoberfest, and their biggest day of the year is the Street Parade, when the clean-up operation may take a week. Zürich HB’s underground world contains the kitchens which produce the food for all 42 restaurants and cafes above ground, including sandwiches for the kiosks. A single ordering system optimises the cost benefits.

As we were led around the underground maze, we saw the beer and wine stores, replenished daily, the soft drinks storage, and the dry goods store including 600kg. of coffee per week. There are 65 nationalities working at the HB catering, and 80 percent of staff are foreigners. Also in the twilight world we saw the laundry service which deals with staff uniforms, the trucks delivering products all over the station and the people dealing with cleaning and recycling.

Candrian Catering has seven new restaurants opening this year, including – breaking news! – a new sushi bar in the main station called Sora Sushi and an Asian garden lounge; look out for them in the summer 2014. Another trendsetter is the supply of popular new beer Chopfab, which means ‘headless’ in dialect.

As we toured through the kitchens, we were surprised not to see much activity, as the catering staff all go to lunch upstairs at 11.30. We saw the butchery where 25,000 sausages are made every week, the pasta kitchen, the fish kitchen and smoking room for the salmon, and the vegetarian food chefs for the Bona Dea restaurant. Most of the food, apart from a freshly cooked steak, is prepared below ground  before being sent upstairs to the appropriate restaurant for final preparation and service.  There are also a bakery and patisserie where all the station’s bread products (apart from Laugenbrot* and bagels) and desserts are produced.


 After our 2 hour long tour, we adjourned into the light of day at the fine dining Da Capo restaurant for our choice of two three-course menus served with water and coffee: drinks were extra, but good value for CHF70 for the whole experience. Thanks to Vreni and our two Candrian Catering guides for hosting us. I can still smell the coffee!

Julia Newton, 26 February 2014

*PS What is Laugenbrot? You may be familiar with the distinctive brown-topped bread rolls as well as the Silserbrot and Bretzels. They are processed using the product Lye, an alkaline solution similar to baking soda.

Restaurant of the Month January 2014

Restaurant Metropol, Fraumunsterstrasse 12, 8001 Zurich

http://www.metropol-restaurant.ch/metropol/en/start.html

ZIWA's Dining Around the World group enjoyed their first event of 2014 with a congenial lunch at one of Zurich's chicest restaurants. The Metropol 'combines refined taste and a feeling of style and atmosphere', according to their website, and this was also our experience. The Business Lunch features a daily menu of two starters and a meat, fish and vegetarian option, combined with the choice of a Japanese Bento box consisting of a sushi and sashimi starter with soup and a choice of three main courses. We could also have opted for the Daily Classic or the Seasonal Special. Most of the ladies in our group opted for the Bento box, and the sushi menu is one of the Metropol's best lunch choices.  Expect to pay around CHF 35-40 for a two course lunch, plus drinks.

The service was impeccable, as the maitre d'  took our coats and the waitress brought us water. Orders were swiftly taken and we sat back to enjoy  the conversation with a sociable group of older and newer members from at least six countries.

The Metropol is very conveniently located close to the Bahnhofstrasse and the Lake of Zurich, and in summer also offers an outdoor terrace as well as an indoor bar area with its own bar snacks menu. The lobster soup is always a winner here. And the a la carte menu offers a great selection of international dishes.

For a chic and stylish meeting place for two people or a group, or for a solitary business lunch in one of Zurich's neo-Baroque houses, the Metropol is hard to beat.

Restaurant of the Month December 2013

Zum grobe Ernst, Stuessihofstatt 16, 8001 Zurich

http://www.zumgrobeernst.ch/

For our last ZIWA Dining Around the World lunch of 2013, we chose this Spanish restaurant run by a Portuguese couple. It's located in the heart of the Zurich Altstadt close to Rathaus, and 13 people joined in on this occasion. Our genial host welcomed us with a glass of sherry.

There was a weekly menu with three set two-course meals priced from CHF32.50 to CHF 56, as well as the daily selection. Many of the dishes featured traditional Spanish cuisine or house specialities. Lamb fillet, beef entrecote and chicken were all popular with our party, and there were vegetarian options too. Paella is also on the menu.

Top starters included pata negra ham, garlic prawns and lobster soup, all delicious. For the main course, the oven-baked Mistkratzerli or small chicken was served as two plates with matchstick chips. There was also a chicken stew and tender lamb, plus various topical fish and seafood options.

The restaurant is a very popular meeting point for groups and was very busy on this December lunchtime. Service was personal, although rather slow due to the number of customers. But the atmosphere was very convivial. To accompany our meal, there was Spanish wine by the glass, beer and water in carafes. And for dessert, the crema catalana was delicious.

For a special occasion this is a cosy and traditionally-styled venue, but be sure to book well ahead. Buen provecho!

Restaurant of the Month November 2013

Restaurant Singapore, Badenerstrasse 530, 8048 Zurich
044 401 15 10

This restaurant has been a feature of Zurich Altstetten for many years, but no longer has a website and can therefore be tricky to track down. But take tram 2 to Freihofstrasse, just past Letzigrund, and you'll find this popular Asian eatery on the right hand side. There's a self-service place on the left but for our Dining Around the World November venue we booked a table in the waitress service room on the right.

The menu offers several tempting Singaporean-style dishes such as chicken and beef satay and a four-dish Reistafel, and we had our own Singaporean expert Penny to advise on a choice of food. Many of the dishes were marked as spicy, but there were also less spicy Malaysian and Chinese options, and all priced at a reasonable CHF23.50. I enjoyed the satays with peanut sauce, fruit and rice, a substantial dish with 6 skewers. Those in the know opted for a Poh Pien starter - a type of steamed spring roll - and shared a bowl of Laksa for the main course. This consisted of a pot of prawns, chicken pieces and tofu with rice noodles in a moderately spicy soup of coconut milk, cardamom and spices. Penny says that this is really a street dish in her native country.

Some of the other diners shared a selection for four people - Chicken Kung Po, Beef with Black Bean Sauce, a Malaysian Reistafel which comprised four different veggie dishes, and a wonderful lamb curry. There were also less spicy options available. Others opted for the dumplings as a starter. Everyone seemed happy with their adventurous choices.

The restaurant gets very busy at lunchtimes so it's good to reserve and it was quite crowded when we were there. You can also choose from a selection of cooling Asian beers to go perfectly with the spicy meal.

For an interesting lunch with attentive service and a varied menu, try the Singapore. Don't let the poor online access put you off - give them a call.

Restaurant of the Month October 2013

James Joyce Irish Pub - Pelikanstrasse 8, 8001 Zurich

http://www.jamesjoyce.ch/
An informal lunch in an Irish pub was enjoyed by 12 members of ZIWA's Dining Around the World group on the last Tuesday of October. The bar staff welcomed us warmly and had set aside a whole bay where we could chat and enjoy some typical pub grub. As well as two daily specials and a dessert choice, we could select from some of the classic dishes including Fish and Chips, the James Joyce complete hamburger and the Club Sandwich. All washed down with a glass or two of Irish draught Guinness.

The bar, located just off Zurich's famous Bahnhofstrasse, has a fascinating history. James Joyce, the renowned Dublin writer, spent many years in Zurich and indeed also died and was buried here. As the pub website tells us,


'The interior furnishing originates from the Jury's hotel in Dublin and was run there as the Antique Bar.

'At the beginning of the 1970s,  the hotel had to give way to urban development measures. At an auction a businessman from Zuerich purchased the interior furnishing and sold it to the SBG (now UBS) at that time. They had the far-sightedness and honoured a guest of many years' standing and friend of the Zuerich city (James Joyce) in this special way.

'The 19th century Art Nouveau bar is considered worldwide as one of the most beautiful bars, as it has been protected and preserved entirely.

'An Irish bar situated in Zuerich may therefore very well be called the James Joyce Bar.'  

The bar is a popular lunchtime venue for local bankers and businessmen, and it is usually advisable to book. Unlike most English pubs, at Zurich's James Joyce there is waiter service and an attractive menu which in October contained a nice selection of autumn specials as well as typical British and some Swiss dishes. The beer selection includes the famous black gold, the Guinness being served in small or large glasses. Having tasted the real stuff in Dublin only a week ago, I found the Swiss ale rather weak compared to the Irish brew. But still tasty. There is a wide choice of beers on draught and bottled as well as whiskies, and unlike most Irish bars, an extensive wine list.

The pub also opens in the evenings but food isn't served until 6pm and the atmosphere is a little more subdued then. However whatever the time of day or evening, you can be sure of a warm welcome with an enticing selection of Irish, British and international food and beverages. Cheers!

Avenches – a medieval town with a long Roman history

Friday 27 September 2013

http://www.avenches.ch/en/index.cfm

ZIWA’s Discovering Zürich and Switzerland group members are used to making long journeys to explore every corner of our beautiful country, but this trip had even more going for it than usual. A three-stage train ride into Canton Vaud, a challenging French lunch menu, two different eras of history and a French-speaking tour guide! Not to mention the chance to meet people from nine different countries and five continents. Where else but in ZIWA?

The journey and the all-important lunch

First we found our coach at the far end of the fast train to Geneva via Fribourg, only to find our seats taken by a party of noisy schoolboys. We closed ranks, and they got out at Bern so we could hear ourselves speak again then. Then in Fribourg there was a rush to catch the regional train to Payerne, and find new neighbours to chat to and more gossip to catch up on. Finally we caught another local train to the small but picturesque old town of Avenches, famous for its towering turrets and its Roman amphitheatre. After hiking uphill, pausing briefly to admire the view, we hurried to find our seats inside the historic Hotel Restaurant de la Couronne for lunch. The menu du jour kept us occupied for quite a while – vivaneau anyone? Choices were divided between that and the civet or venison with all the trimmings, including extra spätzli. Dessert was a yummy chocolate fig cake, and the wine card got a good testing too.

Friends, Romans, countrymen

After settling up and checking out all the facilities, we strolled out to find our guide near the famous Roman amphitheatre. A lovely lady, Sonia Müller, but she spoke only French. Multilingual Chip came to the rescue as translator, with several other members of the French conversation groups chipping in. We heard that the Helvetic tribes, the local Celtic people, were in dispute with the Alamanni, a German tribe, and were defeated here by Julius Caesar in 58BC on his way to conquer Gaul. The Romans under Augustus established a walled settlement known as Aventicum in 15BC, whose relics can be seen in and around the small town to this day. Aventicum became the capital of the Helvetii due to its strategic position and links to waterways. The local people gradually adopted the Roman way of life and benefited from its extensive empire and trade connections. The Sacred Way was built in the town centre in 71-72 AD, and the town boasted 20,000 inhabitants in its heyday. The old town wall is still visible with its 73 watchtowers and four gates. Stone from Neuchatel was brought via canal.

Burial relics

We then entered the Roman museum, which occupies an 11^th century building extending over five floors, adjacent to the well-preserved Roman arena. We studied a map of the old Roman town, and saw several wall paintings, and relics and statues obtained from local burial sites. The museum also contained mosaics of gladiator combat with animals. Downstairs into the region of the dead, we learnt that while adults were cremated, children were buried in stone tombs along with funerary objects which have survived.  Constantine brought Christianity to the Roman Empire in 312 AD.  Upstairs on the first floor we saw many beautiful sculptures including the 2000 year old bust of Marcus Aurelius cast in gold, excavated as recently as 1939. The frescoes, mosaics and coins gave us a fuller picture of life in Avenches during the Roman settlement. On the top floor we saw models of the lifestyle of the local inhabitants, which improved under the Romans.

Back beside the amphitheatre, we heard that today it is used for staging opera, rock festivals and a tattoo in October: 16,000 people can be seated when extended.

Dark and Middle Ages

The imposing castle overlooking the town was home to 22 bishops, although barbarians destroyed part of the original settlement. In the 13^th century, the Bishop of Lausanne founded a small house in Avenches, when window taxes were common. It was later enlarged in the Renaissance style in the 16^th century, by the invading Bernese. Sculptures of the builder, mason and other key figures can be seen on the outer wall of the castle which also served as a prison. The site of an original drawbridge can still be seen; a modern theatre has also been built on the site.

We strolled around the outer wall of the medieval town and re-entered via the 14^th century Tour de Vully at the Porte des Voleurs. On the inner wall, we noticed a Star of David, which indicated a place of sanctuary for Jews. The main street of the medieval town is still much the same, the Town Hall dating back to 1438, and the nearby Rue Paysan was where the people kept their animals and dried tobacco leaves on their sloping roofs.

We just had time to peep inside the curious wooden-roofed church of Mary Magdalene, formerly a Benedictine priory, which was rebuilt in 1709-11 after the Reformation. Then we said Au revoir to Sonia, our guide, and took a welcome drink outside before heading back to the station to catch the direct train to Bern. Another opportunity to socialise, share recipes and email addresses and to thank Anne-Marie for sharing another aspect of her beloved French-speaking part of Switzerland.

PS. Vivaneau turned out to be snapper.

Julia Newton, 1 October 2013.

Restaurant of the Month - September 2013

Restaurant Le Cedre, Hechtplatz, near Zurich Bellevue

http://www.libanesisch.ch/home.htm

On one of the last days of summer, it is possible to enjoy a delicious Lebanese buffet al fresco at the Bellevue branch of the well-known Zurich restaurant. Last week, 15 hungry ladies from the ZIWA Dining Around the World group converged on the terrace of the restaurant, although there was plenty of space indoors had it been cooler. We chose tap water or soft drinks to accompany the meal, and we all opted for the mezzeh option - a typical Mediterranean buffet. The waiter also suggested an accompaniment of tender shredded beef which had been marinaded the night before before baking. It was all delicious!

The food arrived on our table - pittas, stuffed flatbreads, dips such as hummus, baba ganouche (a smoky aubergine dip), mint and tomato salad, olives, falafel, filled pastries and stuffed vine leaves, and many more whose name we didn't know. Everyone was eager to share their favourites, and the dishes kept on being refilled. We identified aubergines, artichokes, chickpeas, cheeses, yogurt and many other vegetarian dishes as well as some samosas filled with minced meat. We kept our plates filled and the dishes kept on coming. It all tasted fresh and not at all spicy.

The mezzeh platter costs CHF25 per person, and the meat platter for four cost CHF30 each - we had four plates. We could have also tried the Lebanese wine but this time we concentrated on eating! Including drinks, we paid CHF40 per person, and left a nice tip. There are other options on the menu which were also good value for an individual meal. And for dessert they offer a sticky baclava or fresh fruit.

The parent branch of Le Cedre at Stauffacher is also popular and also hosts belly dancing evenings, but the Bellevue location was convenient for lunch and less crowded. Everyone was keen to repeat the occasion. Yummy!